Hacienda la Carrera
In January 2023, we traveled to El Salvador with our partner Belco to discover the burgeoning richness of a country in cocoa, more known for its coffee.
Located in Jiquilisco in the department of Usulután, Hacienda la Carrera is the largest cocoa plantation in El Salvador. At an altitude of 26 meters, it spans 160 hectares, of which 113 are in production and 47 are exclusively forest. The farm is very well equipped and its infrastructure is continuously improved to offer high-quality specialty cocoa. Hacienda la Carrera has its own fermentation center, a drying station, and nurseries of Trinitario "fino de aroma" and Criollo varieties. Its highly qualified staff includes a team of agronomists, production, and post-harvest managers. Recently, a new director and a new quality manager were hired: Jairo Vigil and Hector Garcia. Both specialists in the field of cocoa, they were trained in cocoa tasting at the National University of Peru with the aim of improving the quality of Salvadoran cocoa. Hector is notably considered one of the most recognized tasters in El Salvador. He directs the new quality control laboratory which allows not only to analyze their cocoa but also to carry out trial productions of cocoa liquor and chocolate. Quality is therefore a central concern in this Salvadoran plantation.
An environmental commitment
For Hacienda la Carrera, the environmental aspect is also fundamental. The plantation is a forest populated with ancient varieties of cocoa trees and centuries-old shade trees. It is a biodiversity hotspot where a multitude of plant and animal species take refuge, some of which are endangered, such as the spider monkey or migratory birds. Hacienda la Carrera works to protect the mangrove and its biodiversity. Grown in agroforestry, the cocoa trees are planted in the shade of an endemic forest, with over 70% of the shade species being native. More than 10 different species are found per hectare, and several are cultivated to diversify income: cedars, tabebuias, laurels, balsamos, conocastes, and ceibas.
Post-harvest processing
After the harvest, which takes place between September and December, the pods are transported to the farm's collection center for husking. The fresh beans are sorted and then placed in conocaste wooden boxes for 7 days. During fermentation, the temperature gradually increases, and fermentation is rigorously controlled. The work is facilitated by the optimal arrangement of the boxes organized in a cascade and surrounded by stairs. The fermented beans are then spread on raised beds exposed to the sun. After about 18 days, the water content of the beans drops to 5.4%. They can then be packaged in bags. The annual production is approximately 40 tons. Our supplier Belco is responsible for transporting the beans from El Salvador to Bordeaux. In France, they carry out a quality control upon receipt: cut test, moisture measurement, heavy metal and pesticide analysis, etc. They are also equipped to produce test samples of chocolate and cocoa liquor. The profile of the latter is characterized by subtle notes of white wood, white flowers, orange blossom, tropical fruits, sweet butter, and almonds.
Sources
BELCO. Hacienda la carrera. Belco [online]. Available at: https://www.belco.fr/cacaos/993000901000000/hacienda-la-carrera